TSL 17 2 Operating the Webasto TSL 17 NOTE: If heater is being switched on while the engine is warm only the circulating pump will run, coolant temperature must fall below 86 °F. (30 °C.) before heater starts. May 31, 2017  Webasto Tsl 17 Instructions Read/Download WEBASTO. User's Guide English EBERSPACHER & WEBASTO HEATER REPAIR SERVICE MANUAL Webasto Thermo Top ZC TSL 17 Thermo. Home > Products > WEBASTO TSL 17 ENGINE PRE-HEATER 12 VOLT. The TSL heater is a 12-Volt Diesel heater. WEBASTO THERMO PRO90 ENGINE PRE-HEATER 12 VOLT Webasto.

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I installed a Webasto TSL17 in my B4 Passat and have had it running great for about 2 years now. Recently the unit has not been performing properly.

I have not done any changes to the setup, so something has failed and I need some help to identify what. The unit will run the coolant circulation pump, and the combustion chamber fan on high for about one minute and then the unit will just shut off and nothing will be running except the minute count-down on the 7-day timer. The fuel pump is not audibly running during this process. The fuel pump does pump one time when connected to a 12v source. (I think this is the expected behavior.) The weird thing is that there is a constant 12v coming from the fuel pump wiring harness. I would have expected to see a on/off cycle of current to control the fuel pump.

I have reset the unit by pulling the fuse, but the problem persists. I thought I read a thread on this forum about a unit with similar symptoms, but I cannot find it now and I do not remember the solution. Do any of you Webasto gurus have any suggestions? Blowing the dust off this thread to post the solution so that maybe someone else can benefit. Three years later I finally fixed this by taking the unit apart and scraping the carbon out of the burner assembly. Be careful with the glow plug, scrape out the large deposits with a screwdriver or pick, and be mindful not to scrape the steel wool type substance at the bottom of the burner. I should have just taken it apart 3 years ago, but the voltage at the fuel pump thew me off the trail that it was actually a lack of combustion air to the burn chamber that was the problem.

That sounds about right, I found mine would not work one very cold morning, It would start then shut off after a minute or so. Found out that the exhaust out put tube had snow packed up into it. I had backed into the garage the nigth before (There was about a 6 in fresh snow fall) and shoved snow up into the exhaust tube where it froze up that night. So you will know to check that if it will not start and run correctly. I really miss having it in this 03, if the unit was not so high I would buy another but maybe when I get done remodeling my house I can but another heater. __________________ 2003 Jetta 216 injectors, race pipe, OMI, 2.5 cat back pipe, Sachs power clutch,Lightweight fly wheel,Rocketchip 3.0,Dieselgeek race pipe,Borla SS exhaust,Dieselgeek Intercooler pipes,Pierburg MAF,EU cluster with LED Boost gauge,, Ventectomy,Alientech window,Old Navy ccv filter,Catch can,Dieselgeek short shifter,ATE power slot rotors,Porterfield pads,Shine suspension,Shine rear sway bar,TT pedals & foot rest,Cat fuel filter 2 micron,Alum skid plate,Euro headlights and switch,5 Brake light mod.

Blowing the dust off this thread to post the solution so that maybe someone else can benefit. Three years later I finally fixed this by taking the unit apart and scraping the carbon out of the burner assembly. Be careful with the glow plug, scrape out the large deposits with a screwdriver or pick, and be mindful not to scrape the steel wool type substance at the bottom of the burner. I should have just taken it apart 3 years ago, but the voltage at the fuel pump thew me off the trail that it was actually a lack of combustion air to the burn chamber that was the problem. Glad you were able to fix the unit. Well, since this thread comes up when I search the internet for how to fix my Webasto, I may as well update it with my latest update to share with the world.

My method of scraping out the big chunks only seemed to get the unit to work a half dozen more times at most before it would stop again with the same symptoms I noted at the beginning of the thread. There was no solution I could find on the internet so I found someone who repairs these units professionally and actually got them to give me some advice other than to send the unit in for repair. (I was really shocked and glad when he gave real suggestions.) His suggestion was to soak the burner assembly over night in mauratic acid, rinse in water, blow it dry with compressed air, spray with brake cleaner, dry with compressed air. (Be sure to blow in the fuel inlet with compressed air. This cleaned out a bunch for me.) He said the steel wool like wick at the bottom wasn't allowing enough fuel to pass.